ÑAM

Welcome to YUM- I mean, Ñam!

 Ñam - a large food-oriented festival - is apparently a big deal. So it's strange that we had no idea it was happening just a few blocks from Karens co-work. Luckily, as we were leaving the co-work, another SUP participant suggested we check it out. The event was happening on Cerro Santa Lucia, which loyal readers will recognize as the hill we explored via walking tour during our first week here. It was surreal and strangely fun to see the same locations transformed into a bustling party. What we had previously experienced as a hot, empty plaza showcasing some politically-charged Mapuche statues now looked like this:

 When we first entered the festival, there was a section showcasing the cuisine of each of Chile's 16 regions. The region that will be at the center of the July solar eclipse had really gone all in on eclipse decorations. Since we are planning to travel to see the eclipse, we approached and asked for information about it, but despite their apparent investment in convincing people to go to their region for the eclipse, they seemed utterly unprepared for two people who already fully intended to go.
Where should we stay?
-In la Serena.
We already have a place in La Serena. Is that a good place to watch from?
-You should go farther inland.
Why, is the weather better there?
-We don't know what the weather will be. We hope it's good!
Can you recommend a way to get inland?
-Take a bus.
Will the buses be crowded?
-Oh definitely, they'll be way too crowded to use.

 This same part of the festival also had a lot of free food samples from the stalls representing the regions, but a single announcer was interviewing/presenting the regions one at a time. And these interviews were LONG, like full presentations about how to prepare a particular traditional food, and what its cultural significance is. So hundreds of little cups, samples of ceviche, and tiny empanadas sat in plain sight, inches away from the hungry crowd, yet unavailable.

This photo does little to capture the sense of yearning emanating from the crowd.

 Farther into the festival (we gave up on the free samples after 15 minutes) the access road had been taken over by an endless procession of stalls selling artisanal soaps, jams, jellies, olives, oils, cheeses, sauerkraut, honeys, and piscos, all freely giving out samples. Nearly at the top of the hill, a pavilion had more meal-like fare for sale, and we refueled from the "climb" with sausage sandwiches. And just a little farther up, at the very top, was the real prize- the parillada (platter of grilled meat) section.

The arduous hike

This is where our walking tour ended. It was much more lively during Ñam.

The top of the hill!

An otherwise unremarkable area from our walking tour was being used to film some kind of cooking show.

 We bought some parillada meats, looked around, and then retraced our steps back down the hill, stopping to buy some wheat-based coffee substitutes as a present for Karen's friend who had invited us to her birthday party the next night. Tired and very full, we walked home.