Thursday, March 28, 2019

Templo Bahá’í


 This past weekend, we visited the Bahá’í Temple of South America.  It's one of 8 Continental Bahá’í Temples spread all around the world, and it's located about 9 miles outside of Santiago's city center.

 One of Matt's coworkers told us he likes to bike there on the weekends.  We haven't rented bikes here yet, so we ended up taking the Metro and Ubering the last bit... and it's a good thing!  It turns out the Temple is on top of a grueling hillside that would require at least 15 minutes of strenuous effort to bike up.

 At first I thought it might be rude to visit a place of worship as a tourist attraction, but it turns out it is encouraged.  Volunteers from the temple were stationed throughout to welcome visitors and hand out Bahá’í prayers.

 The grounds are filled with walking paths, gardens, reflection pools, and have a stunning view of Santiago.  The building itself resembles a flower bud and is composed of repeating petal-like segments made from glass, stone, and metal.  It's truly an architectural marvel!  When we read about how the building was designed, Karen noticed that the architects used a software called CATIA, which is the same one she used at Boeing :)

 It was discouraged to take photos inside the temple where others may be praying, so I've posted a few from Google Images below:


The Roof

  

Sunday, March 24, 2019

A Taste of Santiago

Pop quiz! Which condiment is in which bottle?  (Scroll to the end of the post to see answer.)
Over the past two weeks, we've had the pleasure of attending two "asados" or BBQs through Matt's job.  The first was held on the 17th story rooftop of his office, which had great views of Santiago.
The second was held in Parque O'Higgins, a sprawling public park filled with many other celebratory groups.  Lollapalooza Chile will actually be held in Parque O'Higgins next week!

The View from Matt's Office
Asasdo #1!
Asado #2- included everything from grilled pineapple, cheese, and meats to Korean BBQ with a homegrown/homemade sauce from one coworker's mother in Korea

Choripan- Chorizo and Pan (bread)

"Tocinitos" Bacon Inspired Potato Chips

When we're not at asados, we've been pretty good at picking up produce to cook at home.  While grocery stores are widely accessible,  it's a fun excursion to head to larger markets, such as La Vega in Santiago, or the Mercado Central of Valparaíso.  The 2nd story of the Valparaíso market was filled with restaurants, where we got "Chupe de Mariscos", a seafood stew, and "Pastel de Choclo", a Chilean take on Shepard's pie where the mashed potatoes are replaced with a sweet corn puree.

Mercado Central de Valparaíso

Restaurants on the 2nd Story of the Mercado (at 10am... so empty)

One of our favorite meals yet has been at Karen's 2011 host-mom's apartment for a home cooked meal of Porotos Granados, a bean-based vegetable stew. 
With Karen's 2011 Host Family



Out for drinks with our Start-Up Chile cohort

Answer: In Chile the red bottle is traditionally reserved for "Ají" or a pepper sauce, leaving green for ketchup.

Saturday, March 23, 2019

A Weekend at the Beach

Who are Karen's new friends? Find out in the newest thrilling chapter of Chile Con Karen (y Matt!)

Valparaíso

 The journey to Valparaíso begins at the Pajaritos bus station. Buses from at least 5 different companies constantly pull into the Pajaritos terminal, load up on passengers, and pull out again, headed towards Valparaíso or Viña del Mar. For many, the 1.5 hour ride between Santiago and the coast is a daily commute. The brands of buses are all essentially identical, but pricing varies, mostly due to the perceived safety of each line. We chose Pullman, which is considered one of the safest bus companies, although accidents usually happen on the steep, twisting routes through the Andes, not the flat, scenic ride to the coast.
 Once onboard, bus safety appears in interesting ways. Passengers are urged to keep an eye on the live stream speed of the bus, and if it goes over the speed limit of 100km/h, to tell the driver to slow down. A screen displays the name of the driver and how long he's been driving- again so that passengers can be sure the driver hasn't exceeded the legal maximum of 5 consecutive hours of driving. And lastly, a sign in front of each seat counsels riders to take care of their seatbelts and not damage them.


Pullman puts bus safety in YOUR hands.
 Valparaíso is a grungy party town, international hippie destination, and high-end art mecca, all mashed into one. We discovered these aspects of Valpo one by one. On Friday night we wandered through the lower elevation areas between the city's iconic hills, where crowds of people surged from bar to club to street. On Saturday we visited two of the hills, Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion. Each hill has its own distinct culture, partly due to the fact that each hill has its own "acensor" or outdoor elevator to help tourists and locals beat the steep ascent.  Overall these two hills were quieter... and more expensive than the lower regions.


Cerro Alegre Acensor

View from the top of the Cerro Alegre Acensor

Cerro Alegre is covered in murals and graffiti art, and packed with boutique chocolate and ice cream shops and art studios.

Some of Cerro Alegre's iconic graffiti  
 We visited the house of one of Valpo's most famous residents: Pablo Neruda. His house (called La Sebastiana) at the top of one of the hills, is built tall and narrow. Each of the 5 floors is only 1 or 2 rooms, all built to maximize the views over the city and the ocean. This was a surprisingly enjoyable tourist attraction, since La Sebastiana really is an appealingly and playfully constructed house. We were stuck behind an entire cruise ship's worth of French tourists in line, but as a result we were lucky to meet 2 friendly Mexican women who joined us in Viña del Mar for the rest of the day.


The view from La Sebastiana



Pablo Neruda did not believe in privacy- or at least not in bathroom doors.

The view from La Sebastiana
Karen in the same spot at La Sebastiana in 2011!


Viña del Mar


 Viña is the tamer, classier cousin of Valparaíso. Where Valpo is an indistrious port, Viña has sandy beaches. Our first stop in Viña was the Reloj de Flores, followed by a walk along the water, past a castle and countless pelicans, to the beach. Having friends with us was nice because we were all able to take turns going in the water while someone watched the backpacks. As Karen and I stood in the surf, we figured that if our new friends stole our stuff after spending hours hanging out together, then they had earned it.





The Reloj de Flores


A castle for humans and a castle for birds


Concón


 On Sunday, we returned to Viña to visit an Archeological Museum with exhibits on the Rapa Nui and Mapuche peoples and an extensive collection of taxidermied animals. Then we continued north to Concon, notable for its sand dunes. Matt's coworker arrived (having biked from Viña, while we took the bus) just as we were leaving, and passed on a recommendation for a good empanada place on the Concon seaside. We caught a bus there and enjoyed some very tasty shrimp and cheese empanadas. Just as we were finishing, Matt's coworker biked up to the restaurant. We laughed and chatted, and then left to head back to our hostel, but first we paused for a while at a beach. When we were ready to leave the beach, we turned around- to find Matt's coworker just arriving on his bike! I guess we were on the same Concón itinerary.


An original Moai from Easter Island
The Moai outside the museum is one of the smaller ones in this diagram, showing the scale of the largest Moai.


The dunes of Concón are a popular place to go sand boarding.



Monday, March 18, 2019

Start-Up Chile Orientation


  Last week was the Start-Up Chile orientation.  Start-Up Chile is an incubator created by the Chilean government to encoruage entrepreneurs to found tech-related companies in Chile.  We are participating in a particular program called "The S Factory" (TSF), which is a 5-month pre-accelerator program specifically for female founders (Karen!).  For the program, we're exploring an idea called Co-op Connect.  Here's our 2-sentence summary.  Stay tuned for progress updates.

  "Co-op Connect is a digital toolbox that helps people start cooperative living environments (co-ops), empowering them to save time on chores, share domestic expenses, and engage with a supportive community."

  There are 18 teams in our TSF cohort, about half of which are Chilean.  Other represented countries include Ecuador, Peru, Venezuela, Mexico, Pakistan, and the Netherlands.  We've gotten to know some of the foreigners more than the locals because this week was filled with visa-related errands for non-Chileans.

  Fun side note- When Serial and This American Life's podcast "S Town" came out, I didn't know what the "S" stood for.  My Mom told me it was OBVIOUS it stood for "sh*t".  Hopefully, there's no confusion about "The S Factory" program we're doing... in case it's not OBVIOUS the "S" stands for "startup" in this case.


Our Start-Up Chile Orientation Day!

The S Factory Gen 9 cohort (we're close to the middle-back)
 

Bonding over a TSF scavenger hunt around Santiago- Karen took the photo!

  To register our visas, all foreigners had to visit the Investigations Police of Chile or PDI and the Civil Registry.  If a foreigner with a pending work visa doesn't visit within 30 days of entering Chile, they have to start the visa process from their home country all over again!!!  PDI handles all things related to foreigners and the Civil Registry handles all things related to Chileans.  Since we're foreigners in the process of getting work visas, we had to visit both.  Unfortunately, the two organizations do not share information.  Start-Up Chile granted us the luxury of a group appointments at both PDI and the Civil Registry.  Altogether, we didn't spend more than an hour at either location.

  Both offices seemed *very* DMV-like with huge lines and a numbered stall system.  One notable difference, however, was the American pop music.  As we waited, loud speakers played Sweet Home Alabama to welcome us to Chile... huh?

 We've emerged from this 
bureaucratic process with an all-powerful RUT, an identifying number which is necessary for just about any transaction in Chile.  Although it's just printed on an official piece of paper for now, we should get the actual plastic card within 2 weeks :)

Sunday, March 10, 2019

Chile con Karen y Matt

Matt and I have moved to Santiago, Chile!  We're reviving this blog, hopefully with more pictures in future posts.  This first post is written by Matt (and approved by Karen).  Ping us if you want to say "hi"- we'd love to hear from you!




Tuesday Night and Wednesday:
  Worried about security and dutifully heeding the “3 hour rule”, we arrived at SFO for our 10:56PM flight just after 7PM. And a good thing too, because security took a whopping 20 minutes! We got to our gate with only hours to spare, and used that time to review some new materials from Start Up Chile.
  The first leg of our flight passed without incident. We ate seaweed snacks, slept, and watched the Fantastic Beasts movies. We had a cushy 3 hour layover in Miami, but we ended up needing nearly all of it, since getting to our next flight involved exiting the terminal and reentering another terminal through security. Everyone in Miami speaks Spanish. In fact, it seems like some airport employees don’t actually speak English. So, we decided to just stay there. Greetings from Miami!
  Just kidding. On our second flight, Karen sat next to a famous Instagram Influencer. At least, we assume that’s what she was, because she took ~50 pouty selfies of herself during the safety instructions video. Karen entertained herself by disassembling her headphones to look at the speaker.
  Upon landing, we made it through customs and took a shared van to our AirBnB. We met our host, who has been very welcoming and friendly, and promptly passed out. Or DID WE? Plot twist! Despite getting less than 4 hours of sleep in over 24 hours, we tossed and turned until we took melatonin and finally managed to sleep.

Karen and her Ergonomic Neck Pillow, Background: Selfie Queen


Thursday:
  Thursday was a day of tramites (errands). First on the list: get our metro cards, onomatopoeically named “tarjeta BIP” for the BIP sound it makes when you use it. We used our new cards to take the metro to Karen’s old stomping grounds, where the Stanford center used to be located (it’s now moved to the same block as our AirBnB). We got sandwiches at one of her favorite sandwich places called Elkika. They were huge creations containing thinly-sliced beef, sauerkraut, palta (avocado), tomato, onion, and a colossal amount of mayonnaise, whose only purpose seemed to be to slide out of the sandwich when you pick it up- a roll it fulfilled flawlessly. 



Note the white stuff is MAYO not cheese.
  We swung by the office where I will be starting, and on our way into the building ran into an employee that I had talked to on a video call weeks ago. Up in the cowork space that is shared with some other startups, I finally met the other engineer!
  Having obtained our Bip, it was now time to get Karen a chip. A sim card chip for her phone, that is. We found a store and they helped set her up with a Chilean phone number and plan. Interestingly, none of the plans include SMS (text) messages, but they do include unlimited social network usage (twitter, facebook, WhatsApp, etc) for free! Pretty much nobody in Chile texts- these apps have completely taken over that niche. The 60 year old phone tech was more smart-phone-savvy than Karen, and judged her a bit for her old iPhone model. While her phone was getting set up, another employee saw the bag of tupperware containers we had just bought and excitedly asked me if we were selling them. I said no, but when she learned we’d bought them only a few blocks away, she couldn’t wait to get them for herself. Now we're thinking we're fools for working in tech, and might have more luck in the tupperware industry here.

These things sell themselves.
  We made a batch of stir fry later, and in our tired state, combined Spanish chorizo with an otherwise largely asian flavor profile- but it was pretty tasty.

Friday:
  First stop- physical therapy. The hospital is only a few blocks from our AirBnB. It was reassuringly large and modern-looking. Although it seemed crowded, the wait for PT (kinesiologia) was pretty short. We arrived well before Karen’s appointment, expecting some kind of confusion, and were not disappointed. They had no record of her appointment. But they were able to schedule one and found a kinesiologo who speaks English- although most of the appointment ended up happening in Spanish. 
  We picked up some more groceries, including roasted nuts called avellanas. We do not care for them. I saw an avellanas-flavored ice cream though, so they must be popular. We also spent some time out in the Bellavista neighborhood, getting lunch, walking past one of Pablo Neruda’s houses, and scoping out the base of a large municipal park called Cerro San Cristobal. Later, on our way to Karen’s host mom’s (Alejandra) house for dinner, a Dia de la Mujer march was in full swing- and we had to walk in the opposite direction as the March. Hopefully nobody interpreted our upstream struggle as a form of antifeminist protest.
  At Alejandra’s house, we met her fiancé, her dog Happy, and her current foreign student. Later, Alejandra’s daughter got home from her first job, which was the topic of a lot of very fast, very hard to understand conversation.

Saturday:
  We spent Saturday doing the world’s most mundane scavenger hunt, including items such as: a yoga mat, an exercise ball, milk, power adapters/converters, slippers, and a small cart to take to farmers’ markets. We spent a long time visiting multiple stores in one of Santiago’s largest malls. Then we came back home and spent a while chatting with our AirBnB host over lunch. His fiancee lives in Lima, Peru, and has a very interesting job. Imagine, if you will, that you are a mining company or refinery and you employ workers. You give those workers shifts- they spend 5 days at a refinery or mining site, and then have 7 days free in the nearest city. But that city might not be where they are from- so since they have to travel for a day to reach their families, they only have 5 days free. Your workers aren’t happy with only 5 days with their families, so sometimes they refuse to come back to work. So you hire people to talk to these workers, interview them, and figure out how to incentivize them to come back to work. But those people have to interview maybe dozens of people a day. It’s hard to figure our what every individual worker wants! That’s where the fiancee comes in- she tries to create corporate incentives to improve employee retention.
  A previous Start Up Chile founder, who Matt met during his job search, had invited us to dinner Saturday night. So we spent the first half of the evening practicing Spanish with him and his wife (and their 5 month old baby), and the second half hanging out in English. 

Sunday:

  Sunday we caught a free tour of Cerro Santa Lucia, which was packed with information and great views. During the tour, we indulged in Mote con Huesillo, Chile's analog to Boba.  It's a summery mix of peach juice, peach chunks (still clinging to the peach seed), and cooked wheat grains. After, we got a typical Chilean lunch of fried merluza fish and pastel de choclo (corn-based shepherd's pie), and meandered through the Plaza de Armas (packed with people) and the Plaza de la Constitucion (deserted). As we write this we are having a relaxing afternoon, calling family and cooking dinner.

Drinking Mote con Huesillo at Cerro Santa Lucia
La Moneda
Plaza de la Constitucion