Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Artesanía Exhibit

¡Bienvenidos!   



The following 5 blog entries contain the contact information for each of the exhibit's featured artisans, voice recordings, and supplemental photos from their studios and neighborhoods.



    For those visiting this website remotely, Artesanía is a multimedia exhibit of Chilean craftwork located in Yost, the Spanish language theme dorm at Stanford University.  Each section of the exhibit focuses on a different medium: weavings, silver jewelry, ceramics, woodwork, and crin/horsehair.  By focusing on five individuals, the exhibit aims to humanize products and foster empathy for artisans.  The artisans’ works are presented alongside photographs, written vignettes, and audio recordings that relay a holistic view of their cultural context.  Pairing of artifacts I created with these artisans strives to connect the Stanford community with the lives of these Chilean artisans.


Call to Action:


Artesanía is a two-way portal.  As artisans openly shared their day-in, day-out realities for this exhibit, they voiced their own desire to learn more about our realities here in the United States.  If you like what you see, they would be thrilled to hear from you, by simply posting on their Facebook wall, sending them an e-mail, purchasing a product, or meeting them in person if you happen to visit Chile.



The Artisans:


   The artisans I collaborated with for this exhibit all share a refreshingly genuine passion for the handmade.  They love expressing themselves creatively and describe the tranquilidad, or peacefulness, of working with their hands as their oxygen, both vital and priceless.  They do not choose a career in craftwork for money, nor because someone else wants them to.  In fact, many depend on family members to get by.  In addition, many of their family members know nothing about craftwork: they generally have city day-jobs, ranging from grocers and taxi drivers to bankers and salespeople.

    The artisans featured in Artesanía also find a sense of peace in knowing that their work builds upon a cultural heritage and, despite long-standing traditions, is dynamically evolving in actuality.  Innovation is inherent to their creative process. 


To illustrate:

·      Marta’s beanies employ techniques her grandmother taught her to make wall-hangings

·      Jaime’s Aros Uñun are an abstracted version of the Mapuche Trapelacucha (displayed) from the 1800’s

·      Macka’s plates and leather buttons move away from the typical pirograbado, or pyro-engraved wooden planks

·      Sara and Maestra Madre’s crin mice and lizard patterns expand upon the classic women and butterflies

·      Sandra’s replications make ancient Mapuche ceramics accessible to the modern customers

   As reflected by the Artesanía exhibit, the lives and neighborhoods of these artisans are not that different from those in the United States.  This fact reflects a contemporary global phenomenon.  While widespread access to cell phones and the Internet break down previous barriers, mulitnational corporations, familiar brands, and cookie-cutter shopping malls are quickly homogenizing the worldwide market, subsequently rendering handmade products an economically uncompetitive novelty.  That said, these artisans are the outliers and they know it. They are not accustomed to seeing others value their work and each mentioned how they truly appreciate when others take the time to understand all the dedication, patience, and skilled work that goes into creating high-quality products by hand.  Such interest generally comes from European and North American foreigners, who account for the majority of their clientele.  A Californian myself, I was genuinely touched by the warmth, generosity, and sincerity of the artisans when working on this project.  Whether welcoming me into their studios and homes, introducing me to their family members, openly sharing personal histories, or inviting me to meals, they went above and beyond to get their stories out and make this project a success with the hopes of garnering international support for their craftwork.


Inspiration:


    Artesanía builds off of 8-months I spent in Chile last year, working with an ethical fashion start-up called VOZ that seeks to empower marginalized, indigenous Mapuche women in rural Southern Chile. I was stunned by the refreshing beauty of these artisans’ rich craftwork. They are true masters at their work, which is largely local, all-natural, sustainable, and passed down from one generation to the next. Artisans create weavings that feature culturally significant symbolism, for example, using hand-spun yarn from wool from sheep in their backyards, which they dye a rainbow of colors using everyday plant matter. Unfortunately, the precarious future of their practices alarmed me. The pressures of globalization now especially endanger these practices. Despite the tremendous value of specialized knowledge to local communities, rapid social homogenization makes it less economically sustainable to rely on artisan craftwork as a sole means of income.

    Until relatively recently, these skills were fundamental to human existence. I am concerned that unforeseen risks will surface if these basic skill sets are not preserved. In this exhibit, I intentionally place these artifacts in dialogue with the more anonymous, industrial, and mass-produced technology characteristic of the Silicon Valley. Similarly, this project’s connection between Chilean artisans and Stanford students is particularly fitting. A research and entrepreneurial institution like Stanford is filled with innovative students who challenge the status quo on a global scale. By exposing Stanford students to Chilean craftwork and celebrating these culturally significant artisan practices, this effort attempts to increase awareness of the continued importance of traditional, sustainable, and ethically produced artifacts in positively shaping student endeavors in the future.

    As a Product Design junior, I am learning how to use cutting-edge technology but have next to no experience with these fundamental artisan product design methods. This gap in my education reflects a scary truth about our first-world culture as a whole. We have become so caught up in efficiency and technology that we have lost connection with basic forms of technology. We have almost no idea where things actually come from and how they are made. While one could argue that the time-honored way of doing things is documented, there is a huge difference between craftwork when it is passively recorded in books versus a living art that is regularly practiced. The very name “craft”-work implies a need for skill that develops with serious practice and patience over time; it must be actively passed on from mentor to student.

    That said, I felt a social responsibility to return to Chile, connect with artisans, and share their valuable craftwork with the Stanford community to garner awareness, appreciation, and support for what they do.


Thank You,
Karen Ladenheim

kladenheim@stanford.edu



Many thanks to the following individuals and organizations for their generous support and funding.  This project would not have been possible without your help!

Jasmine Aarons

Akwasi Abrefah
Zubair Ahmed
Bill Burnett
Holly Gore
Sylvia & Jay Ladenheim
Alejandra & Gaby Langenegger
Christian Javier Vergara Mayorga
José Miguel Mora
Ellen & Arcadio Morales
Gabrielle Moyer
Raviraj Pare
Keith Santiago
Leslie Strong
Barbara Thompson





Monday, August 27, 2012

Yost Exhibit @ Stanford Campus

Pictures of the installation on Stanford Campus 

Yost, 574 Governor's Corner

Stanford, CA 94305,


Student Lounge

Textilería Mapuche, or Mapuche Weavings 
by Marta Isabel Huitraiñan Aillapán and Margarita Ñanculef Calfín









Dining Room





Platería Mapuche, or Mapuche Silversmithing 
by Jaime Rebolledo







Crin, or Horsehair weavings 
by Sara Toro Fuentes







Cerámica Mapuche, or Mapuche Pottery 
by Sandra San Martín Cáceres













Pirograbado, Heat Engravings 
by Mackarena Rebolledo Cortés








Luthería Naty Guitar Workshop
by Juan Carlos Moraga Alvarez Luthier, Founder







Photo Strip from Temuco Chile,






Kickoff Event Flyer

Textilería Mapuche, Weavings


Marta Isabel Huitraiñan Aillapán, Huichiqueo, Chile

Member of VOZ, Fundación Chol Chol, Asociación Wallantu Witral, & Wiñoy Wem Domo weaving groups

Phone: (56)(9) 90978384


Audio: Marta Isabel Huitraiñan Aillapán, Weaver 

 



Audio: Jacqueline Valdebenito Monasterio, Weaver

 

Bio:


          
       I give Marta a quick cell phone call so she knows to board as my bus approaches the paradero, or stop, where she waits with few other women who also specialize in indigenous Mapuche weaving.  It is 2:45 pm, and they have just finished a monthly meeting with a non-profit called La Fundación Chol-Chol, during which the women turn in textiles, receive new orders, and discuss upcoming events.

            Minutes later, when Marta takes a seat next to me, she excitedly pulls out a plastic bag.  Look!  These are plants I can use to dye wool blue and red.  They were gifted from a wood export company’s educational program.  The news comes of no surprise.  In recent years, various efforts to revive Chile’s cultural roots and arts, especially matters related to the country’s largest indigenous group, the Mapuche, have gained momentum.  While groups like La Fundación Chol-Chol have been around for over 30 years and produce traditional articles, such as the Trariwe belt or Manta Cacique, others focus on innovation based on these older methods.  One such company, called VOZ, was founded by Stanford graduate Jasmine Aarons in 2009.  VOZ runs design workshops with weavers, helping them brainstorm, prototype, and sell their own contemporary fashion articles, ranging from clutch purses to dresses. 


Pictures from Education Design Workshops with VOZ




            Ironically, the majority of weavers in the area are not actually descended from the Mapuche.  Rather, they picked up the practice through educational workshops called capacitaciones.  Mapuche herself, Marta is the exception.  Although her Mother and siblings do not know how to weave, Marta gravitated towards the craft as a child and asked her grandmother to teach her at the age of 13.  Now, Marta is an expert at all the steps of textilería, ranging from the carding of wool from sheep and washing and spinning of yarn to creating plant dyes, preparing the loom, or urdiembre, and finally weaving the textile.  A big smile spreads across Marta’s face as she fondly recalls her first sale: a neighbor saw her spinning wool and asked if she could make him a chomba, or jacket.  Marta agreed, and then ran back to the house to ask her grandmother for help, as she had never made one before.  Marta has never stopped since and finds weaving relaxing and a good way to earn money in between cooking, cleaning, caring for her children, and farming.

All-natural Plant Dyes
including onion, blackberry, moss,
cochinilla cactus insect, mud, and tree leaves


            About an hour into our bus-ride, Marta begins pointing out various plots of campo, or farmland, where relatives and friends reside.  Marta lives a little further along with her husband, a brother-in-law, and two of her three children.  She explains that much has changed since she grew up in these parts.  Back then, they had no electricity or public transportation, so every weekend her family would trek the hilly 12 kilometers into town to stock up on staples including sugar, butter, rice, and amenities.  Now, Marta and her husband alternate making trips into town various times a week to buy clothing and equipment, visit the bank, and actively participate in community meetings and educational farming workshops. 

Carahue, the closest city to Marta's Farm 

a 30-minute bus ride away, more here:
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/04/carahue.html


            Despite this increased access to outside resources, they still live off of their land, caring for a variety of animals, harvesting produce, and planting wood to sell. New crops have also appeared.  For example, about five years ago Marta heard about the health benefits of quinoa, so she asked a neighbor for some seeds to start her own batch.  In addition, to exchanging plants, neighbors regularly pop in to say “hi” and share maté, a traditional strong tea, creating sense of community in these parts. 

            Given the labor-intensive nature of this lifestyle, Marta’s family gathers for 4 meals a day.  Farm fresh chicken, eggs, pig, and herbs made their way onto the dining table during my 4-day visit.  When eating, conversation is kept to a minimum, as TV predominates attention, and we enjoy the international programming, which ranges from Chilean telenovelas, or dramas, to dubbed Californian Wild West films to Spanish bullfighting.


Process:


Wool is Carded from Marta's Sheep




Other times wool is purchased from factories in Santiago


for more on Wool factories in Chile see:
 http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/05/more-fun-with-wool.html

Washing 


washed once with warm water, before spinning,
then again using detergent to removes grease and allow plant dyes to bond with wool



Spinning Yarn


can be done by hand (see Marta's Bio pic above) or using a pedal-powered Rueca shown her


Creating a Dark Green Dye
boiling Maquí Tree Leaves & Branches for 20 minutes


Wool Boiled in Dye for ~30 Minutes


Preparing the Loom

only requires 4 sticks, tied with knots


the base is secured with a "chain" yarn at the bottom
winding yarn into ovillos, or balls

The Tonón (red) lifts half the strands






Weaving at Last!




Textile can be wrapped around bottom stick, if it gets too long



Other Sights:

In the Kitchen








Sights around the Farm









Marta's Husband next to their Home



Wool Yarn for Sale in Temuco

Synthetically Dyed

Labranza, Home of VOZ Headquarters

about 90 minutes in bus from Marta's home
Goats, Cows, Horses, & Sheep roam around the town's periphery


Labranza's Produce Market





*Related Blog Entries from 2011:

Labranza:
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/04/labranzatoto-ive-got-feeling-were-not.html
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/04/moving-into-casa-voz.html
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/04/vehicles-of-labranza.html
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/05/walk-around-labranza.html

Weaving:
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/05/yarn-behind-scenes.html
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/05/clases-de-tejer.html
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/06/tejidosweavings-3.html
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/06/la-rueca.html
http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011/08/clase-de-tejer.html